Thursday, November 4, 2010

Maté: Argentina to a T


I had my first maté today. It's a herb tea, very Argentinian, and very popular. It's an essential part of any picnic, or sit-down in a city square or rural park.

It's drunk through a metal tube from something that looks like an ashtray full of cooking herbs. You keep topping it up with water from your flask and sipping away. I wondered why street stalls were so keen on advertising 'agua caliente' - 'hot water' - on 35-degree early summer days. Well, it's so you can refill your maté.

The effect of the bitter-tasting brew is said to be mildly stimulating, like a good strong coffee.

The effect on me was not unlike sucking water through a layer of pondweed, cigarette butts and woodshed floor.

But I don't know how to say that in Spanish. I only know how to say 'está bien'. Which is just as well.

Anyway, I've left Buenos Aires behind, and after three very unpleasant days in Rosario, I'm gradually working my way up through the east side towards Iguazu.